Smelling the roses

As part of the 2009 Yang Ming Shan Flower Festival (further information, see http://www.taipei.gov.tw) flocks of locals have migrated to Chiang Kai Shek’s Shilin Presidential Residence at no. 60 Fulin Road to take in its extensive gardens, in particular the many rose (mei2 gui1 玫 瑰) varietals.


View Larger Map

It’s easy to get to these gardens using public transport. Hop on the MRT to the Shilin Station (not Jianguo) and take Exit 2. Immediately turn left and follow the road (including across a traffic light intersection) for about 5 minutes. If it was anything like today, it will be easy to figure out as everyone else will be flooding out of the station and following the same path:



You’re getting close when you pass some massive herbaceous bovines on your right:



Then a driveway leads the way inside (you may miss the relatively small entrance sign but it’s fairly easy to figure out):



Alternatively, from Exit 2 you can walk straight ahead and take the other entrance on your left hand side. A short way inside the entrance you’ll find a pathway lined by the same tall trees used at the Taipei Botanical Gardens:



Their dramatic effect helps distract from the decidedly un-picturesque open drains:



From some perspectives, they also make this collection of sculptures appear to be behind jail bars – an eerie but cool (presumably unintended) effect:



The main reason for the crowds was the large collection of rose bushes planted throughout the grounds. Although it’s hard to match the Wellington Botanical Garden’s rose garden for quality and beauty, the Shilin Residence was by no means lacking for admirers. Families young and old enjoyed the relatively comfortable weather and each other’s company; and of course life here is not just to be experienced, but also (importantly) captured on camera.



Some areas of the gardens smelled rather like bubblegum - I never found the source of the fragrance. Artistically ordered in a number of configurations, you could view rose bushes winding up trellis arbours:



Alongside curving paths:



Set out in row upon row and flanked with trees, as though it were a rose orchard:



And inside greenhouses, protected from the elements and decorated with ribbons, pearls and trinkets:



Dui wo lai shuo, the most enjoyable parts of the gardens were not the roses, but the number of other treasures tucked around the place, such as this large shady tree with its trunk and branches completely wrapped in leafy vines:



Scultures complementing existing plants and trees, and in turned enhanced by the foliage:









Traditional gardens with plenty of shade and dancing fountains:





Wide open spaces for families to picnic and kids to run amok:



And buildings with tiny details that many people might walk right past and miss:



Set alongside a lily lake, this tucked-away building was lush with greenery, tiny blossoms and berried plants (although the ceiling was low so taller people needed to duck!):







Other greenhouses contained large numbers of orchid plants, and indoor courtyards decorated with draped vines and flower arrangements including animal figures:



To the amateur's eye, the orchids themselves were no different in quality to those found at the Jianguo flower markets, but the setting served to enhance their beauty:



(These were my favourite!):



And of course, who can resist checking out a rich dude's wheels!



If you're interested in checking out the roses, I'd recommend not putting it off if you want to view the blossoms in their best condition (many were already showing that they were into the second half of their race to the grave). As this is a blog post on rose gardens, please humour me as I cap off the entry with a few snaps of the day's beauties. Enjoy!